Suburban Vegetable Gardener

There are now a lot of self watering containers out there.  I have 3 types myself.  And there are more out there.  Plus, there are some great instructions for making your own self watering containers:

• Earthtainer at TomatoFest
• Josh Mandel’s Gardening Site
• Judy’s Square Foot Gardening Blog
• Growing Things Blog

So here’s my top 3 Things to Look for in a Self Watering Container:

1. Is it big enough?
2. Is it easy to fill the reservoir?
3. Is it sturdy?

Now here’s why.

So #1: is it big enough for what you want to grow?  I put blueberries in some 14″ round SWC’s that I got from Johnny’s. I originally bought them for tomatoes, and did grow two cherry tomatoes in 2 of them this year (I have 8 of them).  So the blueberries are thriving, and I keep them trimmed like bushes.  The large tomatoes that I like to grow get HUGE, and they would outgrow the 14″ pot.  In the small Earthbox or the Growbox, I can grow two tomatoes.    Now if you like broccoli, cauliflower, etc, I can grow 5 of them in the small Earthbox and the Growbox.  Supposedly you can plant 6 but they just get too large to successfully grow 6.  And I can only successfully grow 3 cabbages. I learned through trial and error, and want to save you the loss of plants.

#2: is it easy to fill the reservoir? My first SWCs were the GrowBox and they have a large area in the front that’s really easy to stick a water wand into and let the water flow. So when I bought the 14″ round pots from Johnny’s, I was a little surprised that there was only a small slit in the front. And my water want didn’t fit. So I had to switch to a hand held that could switch to “Jet” which would send out a flat stream of water and fill the reservoir. Honestly, I don’t fill them as SWC’s anymore. It’s too painful. So I just water like a normal container.

Now the EarthBox is well loved, and so I broke down and got the small one since it was on sale at my local nursery. They have a pipe that sticks up, so in theory, you put the hose in and fill ‘er up. My problem? I like my magic wand and while I can set it to Center, I have no visual or audio cues for when the reservoir is full, and it starts spilling out the back. The main reason I have SWCs is to save water. The second is I’m lazy and like not having to water every day.  So not my favorite; however, it’s easy to fill up without bending over.

And finally to #3.  Is it sturdy.  Of the 3 I purchased, they’re all really solidly built and I have no complaints.  The GrowBoxes have survived 3 seasons and still look new.  This would only be an issue if you made your own or they come out with new SWCs that are inferior quality.  Better to make an up front investment and have them last longer.

Smaller tomatoes work out better in cooler climates.  So if you were on the coast or in Seattle, you’d want to plant these kinds of tomatoes during the regular tomato season (June – August).  Being in Silicon Valley, I have a bit more sun time.  Tomatoes are more than just the heat…they are also about how much sunshine they get, and the soil temperature.

I did something really silly when I started seeds this past February.  I wrote it down in a notebook but lost the notebook, and then I didn’t know what was what.  I knew approximately what they might look like, but sadly, I had a lot of problems transplanting my seeds and only about 12 of them survived.  This one is the Renee’s Garden Pompeii Roma Tomatoes.  I think it looks REALLY cool and they added a bright flavor to Boring Jarred Spaghetti Sauce.

When we get close to 40F at night, I will wrap the tomatoes up with “red mulch” plastic when the sun goes down.  I’ve been wanting to try those water walls too.  But for now, these tomato plants are too big for that.  I planted one each of Champion, Glacier, Siberian, Stupice, Jetsetter, and Manitoba.  Yes I bought them from my local nursery.  It never occurred to me that I could continue to grow tomatoes through October and November until I got their pretty email suggesting it.  Score one for email marketing.

I grew Stupice before.  I bought the seeds from Totally Tomatoes and they started well.  The plants were slim and vine-y.  The tomatoes were larger than grape, smaller than roma and standard tomato shape.  I remember them as being very sweet.  And the good news is I already have a green tomato on it!

The other plants are sturdy kind of like the patio tomato from Renee’s Garden seeds.  I had fun growing those last year.  The tomato plant was like a mini tree because it was so thick and solid!  This year, it’s smaller and producing good tomatoes that are sweet.

(see how short it is compared to the others?  But the tomatoes are large)

As I’ve complained, we have had the coldest summer in 40 years.  I think we were over 80 for a total of 20 days since May.  I’ve got huge green tomatoes.  So, fingers crossed, we’ll get some warm weather in September and they’ll ripen up.  If not, my mom gave me a book she used on using red and green tomatoes.  I’ll review it on my other website LocalGardenBooks.com

I had someone write some articles for me last year.  I stopped because I would rather make the postings more personal.  I’m still looking for people to do guest blogs, if you’re as much of a suburban “farmer” as I am.

Still, I hate to let good information go to waste.  So, let me preface with my broccoli usually does well if I start and transplant.  I am going to try planting seeds.  It’s been so mild here that I suspect it’s going to stay mild for a lot longer and these seeds will have an opportunity to get their roots down before it goes below 40F at night.  So, enjoy:

Broccoli significantly increased it popularity due to researches that it has substances that can fight cancer. It is also rich in Vitamins A, C, D and beta-carotene.  This type of vegetable prefers cooler temperatures for best growth.

When broccoli plants of most varieties are properly grown and harvested, they can yield over an extended period. Side heads develop after the large, central head is removed. Two crops per year (spring and fall) may be grown in most parts of the country. New heat tolerant varieties allow broccoli to be produced in all but the hottest parts of the season.

It is highly recommended to have these plants transplanted to establish growth quickly. However, direct planting can be done if there is enough space. There are varieties which can be harvested within 55-60 days after planting.

Planting

For seeds, plant them half an inch deep on the soil. For seedlings, plant them slightly deepen than the original depth when they were planted. Plant seedlings in a row, about two feet apart from each other. The rows should be about 3 feet apart in between. Broccolis grow to up to two and a half feet.

(( I’ll put 6 in my self watering containers.  Broccoli works well but it’s too close quarters for cauliflower or cabbage ))

Fertilizer

It is recommended to use compost as fertilizers. Apply fertilizers especially when central heads begin to appear. This will give a boost to your plants’ nutritional and moisture needs. Mulching is also an excellent technique to retain moisture.

((Remember to fertilize your containers every 2 weeks.  Do I always remember? Um, no, but I’m getting better and things are staying greener.  And this year, the veg and fruit were a bit larger))

Watering

Broccoli need moisture to survive. When the rain is scanty, water the plants one to two inches every week.

((and that’s why I use self watering containers…when it rains, it seems to store water so when it’s dry, I still don’t have to water))

Harvesting

Broccoli can be harvested once the heads are large enough to use. The edible part of this vegetable is the compact young flower buds and the stem attached to it. When the head begins to turn yellow, it means that the flowers are beginning to bloom. The central head should also be 4 to 6 inches in diameter. Cut the head with five inches of the stem. This will stimulate the growth of side shoots. You can harvest other shoots using the same process with the central head. The side shoots grow 1 to 2 inches in diameter.

((I have to say this is fun to cut and come again with broccoli!  It’s nice when I want a flower or three for lunch.  I need to plan better so I can have enough broccoli for the 3 of us for dinner))

((Ok, I found a picture of my broccoli from this past Spring….we had a heat wave, and the next day, I went out to get some broccoli raab, and it had bolted!!  Beautiful flowers but it was disappointing. ))

Thanks for reading!  I’ll post pictures of my new tomatoes next.  YES I planted more tomatoes in September.

An email from a local nursery (SummerWind Campbell) suggested that Now is the Time to Plant more tomatoes.  Well, how could I say no to that.

Our summer in Silicon Valley has been the coldest in 40 years.  I have these huge GREEN beefsteak tomatoes.  We have the occasional spikes up to 90, and then I’ll get one or two red ones, but it’s been a disappointing summer crop wise.

I had planted 20 summer squash, and was never overwhelmed.  I barely canned 6 pints of Zesty Zucchini Relish!

So, when the email promised extending my tomato season, I jumped!  I bought one each of Champion, Glacier, Siberian, Stupice, Jetsetter, and Manitoba.

I’d grown Stupice from a seed last season and they were very sweet and about the size of a grape tomato.  I’m looking forward to trying Glaciers.

This weekend, I need to go out and pull the squash plants that are done, and the grape tomato plants that aren’t going to produce any more. (let’s hear it for determinate plants).  And then I’ll plant spinach, chard, peas and turnip seeds.  I’m feeling curious so I’ll try to plant broccoli, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts from seeds rather then starting them in the house and transplanting.  My husband is getting annoyed at losing the dining room table for weeks at a time.

Keep your fingers crossed that we get a few more heat waves.  My bean poles are lush with beautiful green vines, barely any flowers, and me wanting my blue lake beans.